Installing a service entrance is not a weekend DIY project. It involves working directly with utility-supplied power — 200 amps or more in most residential installs — and a mistake can be fatal or burn a house down. That said, if you own a home, manage rental properties, or are building new construction, understanding how this work gets done puts you in a better position to hire the right people, ask the right questions, and avoid getting overcharged or undersold on scope.
I’ve been doing this work at Ohms Electric Reno & Sparks for years, and service entrance installations come with their own set of rules, local quirks, and common mistakes. This guide walks through each phase of the process in detail.
How to Install Electrical Service Entrance?
The service entrance is the point where utility power transitions from the provider’s responsibility to yours. It typically consists of the service drop or lateral (overhead or underground conductors from the utility), the weatherhead or conduit riser, the meter base, the service entrance conductors running from the meter to the main panel, and the main disconnect or breaker panel itself.
Here’s how the installation sequence typically goes on a residential project in 2026.
Step 1: Pull the permit.
In Nevada — and virtually every other state — electrical service entrance work requires a permit and inspection. The National Electrical Contractors Association and OSHA both make clear that unpermitted service work creates liability and insurance problems. Your utility won’t reconnect power without a signed inspection card anyway.
Step 2: Determine service size.
Most new homes in the Reno-Sparks area are installed with 200-amp service. If the home has an EV charger, a large HVAC system, or plans for an addition, going to 400 amps at the outset is worth the conversation. Electrical panel installation sizing decisions made now save expensive upgrades later.
Step 3: Install the meter base.
The meter base mounts to the exterior wall at a height approved by NV Energy — typically between 4 and 6 feet from finished grade to the center of the meter. It must be plumb, weather-tight, and rated for the amperage you’re installing. A 200-amp installation uses a 200-amp-rated meter base. The base gets mounted before the utility installs the meter, so the work needs to match their specs exactly.
Step 4: Run the conduit riser (overhead service).
For overhead service, a rigid conduit or Schedule 80 PVC riser mounts above the roofline, terminating in a weatherhead — the curved fitting that keeps rain out of the conduit opening. The service drop conductors from the utility connect at the weatherhead, but the utility physically makes those connections. You install the riser and weatherhead; they attach their conductors. The riser has to be high enough to maintain NV Energy’s required clearances — 10 feet minimum above finished grade, higher over driveways and streets.
Step 5: Pull service entrance conductors.
Service entrance cable (SEC) or individual conductors in conduit run from the weatherhead or meter base to the main panel. These are typically aluminum conductors — aluminum is code-compliant and standard for service entrance work at this gauge, despite the skepticism some homeowners have about aluminum wiring in general. The conductors must be properly sized, terminated with anti-oxidant compound, and torqued to the manufacturer’s specification on every lug.
Step 6: Install the main panel.
The main panel mounts inside (or outside, depending on layout) and receives the service entrance conductors on the line side of the main breaker. The neutral conductor bonds to the panel’s neutral bar, which connects to ground at the main panel only — not at sub-panels downstream. Two ground rods or a Ufer ground (concrete-encased electrode) connect here as well.
Step 7: Schedule inspection and coordinate utility reconnection.
Once work is complete and inspected, the utility installs the meter and energizes the service. Don’t try to connect the service drop yourself — that portion of the conductor is energized even when your panel is off.
How to Install an Electrical Service Entrance Splice?
A service entrance splice comes up most often in two situations: extending service entrance cable when the original run is too short to reach the panel cleanly, or making the connection between the utility’s service drop conductors and the top of your riser at the weatherhead.
Technically, the National Electrical Code (NEC) discourages splices in service entrance conductors as a matter of good practice — you want a continuous, uninterrupted run from weatherhead to panel. But field conditions sometimes make a splice unavoidable, and when they do, it must be done correctly.
At the weatherhead, service drop conductors from the utility are connected to the service entrance conductors using insulated mechanical connectors or split-bolt connectors rated for the conductor sizes involved. The connection gets wrapped with self-fusing silicone tape and weatherproof mastic tape to keep moisture out. Aluminum-to-aluminum connections require anti-oxidant compound. Aluminum-to-copper connections — which come up occasionally in older service upgrades — require connectors specifically rated for both metals. Using a standard copper-rated connector on aluminum causes corrosion, which increases resistance, which generates heat.
I’ve seen service entrance splices that were done with undersized connectors and standard electrical tape. Over a few years, those connections corrode, loosen, and start arcing. If you’re buying a home and the inspector flags a “splice at the weatherhead,” get the connection type and materials verified before closing.
For mid-run splices in service entrance cable — rare but occasionally seen on long runs in commercial-adjacent residential work — the splice must be accessible, made in a listed junction box, and the box must remain accessible after installation. Buried or wall-enclosed splice boxes are a code violation.
How to Install an Electrical Service Entrance (Detailed Breakdown)?
This section covers the nuances that trip people up even when they understand the basic sequence.
Clearances and utility coordination. NV Energy has its own service installation guide, and it doesn’t always match NEC exactly. Where they differ, the stricter requirement applies. Service drop attachment height, conduit sizing, meter base specifications — all of these get reviewed by the utility before they connect. I recommend calling NV Energy before you start any service entrance installation in the Reno-Sparks area, not after.
Grounding electrode system. In 2026, the NEC (currently the 2023 edition, adopted in Nevada) requires a grounding electrode system that typically includes two ground rods spaced at least 6 feet apart, driven to a minimum of 8 feet depth. If the first rod tests above 25 ohms resistance, you must drive a second rod regardless. A Ufer ground — the rebar in a concrete foundation — is actually a better electrode than ground rods in most soil conditions and should be used in new construction whenever possible.
Bonding. The main panel neutral bar must bond to the enclosure and to the grounding electrode system. Sub-panels must not have this bond — their neutral bars float. This distinction matters because errors here cause neutral current to travel on grounding conductors, which creates shock hazards and NEC violations.
Wire sizing. A 200-amp service typically requires 2/0 AWG aluminum or 1/0 AWG copper for service entrance conductors, though the exact sizing depends on the conductor type, temperature rating, and conduit fill. For a 400-amp service, 350 kcmil aluminum per phase is common. Get the wire sizing verified by a licensed electrician before purchasing materials — undersized service conductors are a serious fire risk.
How to Install Electrical Service for New Construction?
New construction gives you options that retrofits don’t — specifically, you get to design the service location, conduit routing, and grounding system from scratch rather than working around existing conditions.
The new construction electrical contractor workflow on a residential build in Northern Nevada typically follows this sequence: rough-in (wiring before drywall), trim-out (device and fixture installation after drywall), and service entrance installation, which can happen concurrently with rough-in on the exterior but must be completed before the final inspection.
In new construction, the service entrance location should be coordinated with the architect and framer early. The meter base needs exterior wall backing, the conduit needs a clear path to the panel location, and the panel location needs adequate working space per NEC 110.26 — 36 inches of clearance in front of the panel, 30 inches wide, 78 inches high. I’ve walked into new builds where the panel was framed into a closet with a shelf 18 inches in front of it. That’s a failed inspection and a rework.
For new construction, the grounding electrode system is typically a Ufer ground tied into the foundation rebar before the pour. Missing this pour is a significant problem — adding a Ufer after the fact means breaking concrete. If your contractor isn’t coordinating the Ufer ground with the concrete subcontractor, that’s a gap worth flagging.
Wiring installation in new construction also follows a logical order. Rough-in covers all branch circuits, and the wiring installation gets inspected before any insulation or drywall goes up. The service entrance conductors are typically one of the last rough-in items completed.
The Independent Electrical Contractors association notes that new construction electrical scopes are frequently underestimated in the planning phase, particularly on custom homes with high electrical loads. Get a load calculation done early — before the panel size is finalized.
How to Install Underground Electrical Service?
Underground service has become the default in most new residential subdivisions in the Reno-Sparks area. Aesthetically cleaner, less vulnerable to storm damage, and increasingly required by local ordinances and HOAs.
The underground service installation process differs from overhead service in several key ways.
Trench depth. Underground service entrance conductors in conduit require a minimum trench depth of 24 inches under most conditions. Direct-burial cable (used occasionally) requires 24 inches as well, though some jurisdictions allow shallower depths under concrete or other protection. Check with Washoe County or your local authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) before you dig.
Conduit type. Schedule 40 PVC is the most common conduit for underground laterals, though the section that emerges from the ground and runs up the exterior wall must transition to rigid metal conduit or Schedule 80 PVC — the thicker-walled material that resists physical damage. The transition point matters: Schedule 40 underground, Schedule 80 or rigid above grade.
Conduit fill and pull. Underground lateral conduits frequently run long distances — 50 to 200 feet on a typical lot. Pull lubricant is not optional on runs over 50 feet. The conductors used underground are typically XHHW-2 aluminum in conduit, which is rated for wet locations and the heat that builds in buried conduit during peak load.
Sealing. The conduit end at the meter base must be sealed with duct seal compound to prevent moisture migration and insects from traveling up into the meter enclosure. This is a small step that gets skipped more often than it should.
Utility coordination. NV Energy bores the utility lateral to your lot line or meter base location — you’re responsible for everything from your meter base into the home. The handoff point needs to be agreed on before trenching starts.
How to Install an Underground Electrical Service (Common Mistakes and Field Notes)?
Most of the underground service failures I’ve seen come from a handful of recurring errors.
Skipping the sand or warning tape. Underground conductors in direct-buried conduit should have a layer of sand below them for bedding and a layer above before backfill. A caution tape run 12 inches above the conduit warns anyone digging in the area before they hit live conductors. Both of these steps get omitted when crews are rushing.
Undersized conduit. Running 2-inch conduit for a 200-amp underground service seems like enough until you try to pull 2/0 aluminum conductors through 150 feet of it with two 90-degree bends. The friction alone can exceed the conductor’s maximum pulling tension and damage the insulation. For a standard 200-amp residential lateral, I recommend 2.5-inch or 3-inch conduit — the cost difference is minimal, and future service upgrades won’t require a new trench.
Improper grounding at the meter base. Some utility meters have a ground lug on the meter base enclosure that needs to connect to the grounding electrode system independently of the service entrance conductors. This bonding jumper gets overlooked on underground installations because it’s not as visually obvious as the overhead weatherhead connections.
Failing to call 811. Nevada law requires calling 811 at least three business days before any digging. Every single time. Underground utility conflicts — gas lines, water mains, existing electrical — are the kind of thing that ends a project, or a person. This isn’t optional and isn’t a formality.
If you want your underground service done right — trench depth verified, conduit properly sealed, conductors correctly sized and torqued — our team at Ohms Electric provides full-service electrical installation services across Reno and Sparks.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a homeowner pull their own service entrance permit in Nevada?
In Nevada, a homeowner can pull permits for work on their primary residence in many jurisdictions. However, service entrance work touches utility-owned conductors and requires utility coordination. Most homeowners are better served hiring a licensed electrical contractor — both for safety and because utilities often require contractor sign-off for reconnection.
How long does a service entrance installation take?
A straightforward residential service entrance upgrade typically takes one full day for a qualified crew. New construction service installations can happen in a few hours once rough-in is complete. Underground lateral installations add time depending on trench length and soil conditions.
What does service entrance installation cost in 2026?
In the Reno-Sparks area, a 200-amp service entrance upgrade runs between $2,500 and $5,000 depending on the existing conditions. New construction installs vary significantly with house size and complexity. Underground laterals add cost based on trench length and access conditions.
What triggers a service entrance upgrade?
Adding an EV charger, a hot tub, significant HVAC additions, or a home addition are the most common triggers. An older home with a 100-amp service trying to support a modern load is another. Circuit breaker installation or repeated breaker trips are signs the system is at capacity.
What’s the difference between a service entrance and a sub-panel?
The service entrance is where utility power enters your home and connects to the main panel. A sub-panel is fed from the main panel and distributes circuits to a detached garage, workshop, or home addition. They’re wired differently and grounded differently — the neutral-ground bond only belongs at the main panel.
Service entrance work is not the place to cut corners. The conductors involved carry full utility voltage at all times — even when your main breaker is off. If you’re planning a service upgrade, new construction electrical scope, or underground lateral installation in the Reno or Sparks area, our team can review your project and give you a straight assessment of what it takes.
Contact us to schedule a consultation, or visit our wiring and installation services page to learn more about what we do.
