Most people think about drywall, plumbing, and roofing when they picture a new build. Electrical gets treated like an afterthought — something that happens quietly inside the walls. That’s backwards. The electrical service is the backbone of everything that runs in that house, from the HVAC system down to the kitchen outlets. Get it wrong at the rough-in stage and you’re paying to tear open finished walls later.
I’ve been doing new construction electrical work in the Reno and Sparks area for years, and the same mistakes show up on job sites over and over. Undersized service. Panel placement that makes no sense. Homeowners who didn’t know they needed utility coordination until two weeks before occupancy. This guide covers the full process — what the work actually involves, what it costs in 2026, where the permit process fits in, and what’s legal for a homeowner to do themselves.
How to Install Electrical Service New Construction?
New construction electrical service installation happens in three distinct phases: rough-in, service entrance, and final inspection and trim-out. Each phase needs its own permit sign-off before the next one begins, and the utility company has its own parallel approval process that runs alongside the permit process.
The rough-in phase starts after framing is complete. This is when you run all the branch circuit wiring through the framed walls, drill through studs, install boxes for outlets, switches, and fixtures, and mount the panel. At this stage, no wiring is connected — it’s all staged and labeled, ready for the service entrance work. The wiring installation at this phase sets the capacity and layout for everything else.
Once rough-in passes inspection, the service entrance goes in. This covers the mast or conduit that runs from the utility drop point down to the meter base, the meter socket itself, and the main conductors that feed the service panel. The utility company — NV Energy in northern Nevada — will not connect their lines until this work has been inspected and approved.
After the service is energized, the final trim-out happens: wiring gets terminated at breakers, outlets, switches, and fixtures. Panels get labeled. GFCIs and AFCIs go in where code requires them. A final inspection closes out the permit, and occupancy can proceed.
The National Electrical Contractors Association sets professional training and standards for this type of work. The 2023 National Electrical Code (NEC), which Nevada adopted, governs the technical requirements at every phase.
How to Install a New Electrical Service Panel?
The service panel is the distribution point for every circuit in the building. Choosing the right size panel — and mounting it correctly — is one of the decisions that’s hardest to fix later.
For a new home in 2026, a 200-amp panel is the standard minimum. If the home will have electric vehicle charging, a heat pump, an electric range, or any other high-draw appliances, 200 amps may not be enough. I’ve spec’d 320-amp service on homes under 2,500 square feet because the owner had a two-car garage with dual EV chargers and a hot tub. It’s easier to size up now than to upgrade the service drop and panel in five years.
Panel location matters more than most people realize. The panel must be accessible — not inside a closet that requires moving furniture, not behind a water heater. NEC requires at least 36 inches of clear working space in front of the panel, 30 inches wide, and 78 inches of headroom. In Nevada’s climate, mounting on an exterior wall is fine as long as moisture intrusion is addressed.
Once mounted, the main breaker goes in first. Then bus bars are installed, followed by the neutral and ground bars. Circuit breakers mount onto the bus bars, and each circuit’s conductors get terminated — hot to the breaker, neutral to the neutral bar, ground to the ground bar. In 2026, the NEC requires AFCI protection on most living space circuits and GFCI protection in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and outdoor areas.
For the electrical panel installation specifically, a licensed electrician needs to be on the permit in Nevada. The panel is directly connected to the utility feed, which makes it subject to utility approval requirements on top of the standard permit process.
What Do I Need to Do to Install a New Electrical Service with PGE?
For most of northern Nevada, the relevant utility is NV Energy, not PG&E — but the process is similar whether you’re in Nevada, California, or elsewhere. I’ll cover the NV Energy process here, and the same general framework applies to other utilities.
The first step is submitting a new service application to NV Energy before any exterior electrical work begins. You’ll need the site address, the service size requested, the panel location relative to the street, and the contractor’s license number if a licensed electrician is pulling the permit. NV Energy assigns a job number and a service designer reviews the site.
The service designer determines where the utility transformer will be located, how the service drop will be routed (overhead or underground), and what specifications the meter base and conduit must meet. They issue a service design sheet that your electrician uses to install the meter socket, conduit, and service entrance conductors to their exact specifications.
After rough-in passes the city or county inspection, your electrician completes the service entrance installation — meter base, conduit, and conductors all installed per the NV Energy design sheet. The electrician calls for a utility inspection. NV Energy sends out a field rep to verify the installation meets their standards. Only after that approval does the utility schedule the actual service connection.
The whole process, from application to energization, takes a minimum of four to six weeks in the Reno/Sparks market in 2026. Delays happen when service design is backlogged or when the installation doesn’t pass utility inspection the first time. Starting the NV Energy application early — before framing is even done — is the move. I’ve seen contractors wait until rough-in is complete to start the utility process and add six weeks to their project timeline for no reason.
The Independent Electrical Contractors association has resources on utility coordination processes that apply across most states if you’re working in a different service territory.
How Much Does It Cost to Install New Electrical Service?
Costs in 2026 have risen from where they were even two years ago, driven by labor rates and material prices — copper conductor costs in particular have stayed elevated. Here’s a realistic breakdown for northern Nevada:
A standard 200-amp service installation on a new single-family home, including the panel, service entrance, meter base, and all rough-in wiring, typically runs between $8,000 and $14,000. That range covers a 1,500 to 2,500 square-foot home with a standard circuit layout. Larger homes, homes with detached garages, or properties that need underground service rather than overhead will push toward the higher end.
Upgrading from 200-amp to 320-amp service adds roughly $1,200 to $2,500 to the panel and service entrance portion of the job. If EV charging station installation is part of the scope, that adds $400 to $800 per Level 2 charger depending on the run length from the panel.
Underground service — where the utility feed runs below grade to the meter — adds cost because of trenching and conduit. In a typical northern Nevada subdivision, trenching can add $500 to $1,500 depending on distance and soil conditions.
Permit fees vary by jurisdiction. Washoe County and City of Reno fees in 2026 run between $200 and $600 for a residential electrical permit, depending on the valuation of the work.
One thing I’d caution homeowners about: bids that come in significantly below this range usually mean the contractor is cutting corners on panel sizing, using undersized conductors, or planning to skip steps in the utility coordination process. The Electrical Association provides pricing benchmarks for electrical work that can help you evaluate whether a bid is realistic.
The cheapest service installation isn’t the one that saves you money — it’s the one you pay to fix after you’ve already moved in.
Can a Homeowner Install a New Electrical Service Drop?
The short answer is no, not practically. Here’s why.
In Nevada, the service drop — the conductors that run from the utility’s lines to the meter base — is owned and installed by the utility. NV Energy does not allow property owners or even licensed electricians to connect to their lines directly. The utility handles the aerial or underground conductors from their transformer to the point of attachment on your building. What you own starts at the meter base.
The work on your side of the meter — service entrance conductors, meter socket, main disconnect, and the panel — requires a licensed electrician to be on the permit in Nevada. Nevada Revised Statutes and the Nevada State Contractors Board regulate this. NRS 624 governs contractor licensing, and electrical work above a certain scope requires a licensed electrical contractor to pull the permit. Homeowners can pull owner-builder permits for some electrical work, but service entrance work is one of the areas where even owner-builders typically need a licensed electrician involved because the utility won’t approve the installation otherwise.
In California, PG&E territory follows a similar framework. The homeowner can do some of their own rough-in wiring under an owner-builder permit, but the service entrance and the utility connection require a licensed contractor on the permit for utility coordination purposes.
The Occupational Safety and Health Administration publishes electrical safety resources that make clear why service entrance work is particularly hazardous — these conductors are energized from the utility side and are not protected by your main breaker.
If you want to work with a licensed electrician who handles the full process including utility coordination, that’s the practical path for almost every homeowner.
How to Install Electrical Service Entrance?
The service entrance is the section of your electrical system that runs from the point of attachment on the building down to the meter base, then from the meter base into the main panel. This is distinct from the utility drop — you own this part, but it has to meet both the NEC and the utility’s specifications simultaneously.
For an overhead service, the process starts at the service head (also called a weatherhead), which is the fitting at the top of the service mast that keeps water out of the conduit. The service mast is typically rigid metal conduit or intermediate metal conduit, mounted to the building structure and sized to clear the NV Energy minimum clearance requirements — 10 feet above grade at the lowest point, and specific clearances above rooflines and driveways.
The service entrance conductors — typically 2/0 aluminum for 200-amp service — run from the weatherhead down through the mast to the meter base. These conductors must be sized per NEC Table 310.12 and per NV Energy’s specifications, which sometimes require larger conductors than the NEC minimum. The meter base is mounted at a height NV Energy specifies, typically between 4 and 6 feet above grade to the center of the meter.
From the meter base, conductors run through the exterior wall into the main panel inside. The entry point must be sealed against weather and rodents. The conductors terminate at the main breaker lugs.
Underground service entrance is more common in newer Nevada subdivisions where utilities run underground. In that case, conduit runs from the meter base down through the foundation or exterior wall and into a trench. NV Energy specifies the conduit type (schedule 40 or 80 PVC in most cases), burial depth (usually 24 inches for residential), and the size of the pull boxes if required.
Every connection point, conductor size, and clearance measurement gets checked at the utility inspection. This is not the place for improvised decisions. Following the NV Energy design sheet to the letter is what gets you through inspection on the first visit.
For an overview of all the electrical work that goes into a new build beyond just the service entrance, take a look at the full range of electrical installation services we provide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I Need a Permit for New Construction Electrical Work?
Yes, always. Every jurisdiction in Nevada requires an electrical permit for new construction. The permit process is what triggers the inspections that protect both the homeowner and the occupants. Working without a permit on a new build creates title and insurance problems that are painful to resolve.
How Long Does It Take to Wire a New House?
For a typical 1,500 to 2,500 square-foot single-family home, rough-in wiring takes a licensed crew two to four days. Service entrance installation is usually a one-day job once the utility design sheet is in hand. Trim-out after drywall takes one to two days. The permit and utility coordination process is what extends the overall timeline — plan for six to eight weeks from permit application to service energization.
What Size Panel Do I Need for a New Home?
200 amps is the starting point for any new home in 2026. If you have electric vehicle charging, a hot tub, electric cooking, or a heat pump water heater, run a load calculation before settling on panel size. I’ve done that calculation for clients who thought they needed 200 amps and ended up recommending 320 based on their planned appliance load. A circuit breaker installation guide can help you understand how panel capacity maps to individual circuits.
What Is the Difference Between Service Entrance and Service Drop?
The service drop is the utility’s conductors — they own it, they install it. The service entrance is everything on your side of the utility connection point: the weatherhead, mast, meter base, and conductors running to your panel. You own the service entrance equipment and are responsible for its installation and maintenance.
Can I Add a Generator Connection to a New Construction Service?
Yes, and new construction is the best time to do it. Adding a transfer switch or a generator-ready panel during rough-in adds minimal cost compared to retrofitting later. We handle generator installation alongside new construction electrical work regularly.
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New construction electrical is one of those jobs where doing it right the first time is dramatically cheaper than fixing it later. Undersized panels, skipped utility coordination steps, and service entrance work that doesn’t meet utility specs all become expensive problems after the walls are closed and the certificate of occupancy is issued.
At Ohms Electric Reno & Sparks, we handle the full scope — permit applications, utility coordination with NV Energy, rough-in wiring, service entrance installation, panel setup, and final trim-out. If you’re breaking ground on a new build in the Reno or Sparks area, contact us to talk through the project before framing starts. Getting the electrical contractor involved early is the single best way to avoid delays and cost overruns down the line.
